German Bight, Kiel Canal & Baltic Sea – May 2023

🧭 Factsheet

Route: From Helgoland to Ærøskøbing
Period: 18 to 21 May 2023
Logged: 165 nautical miles
Days in harbour: 2
Days at anchor: 1
Highlight: A beautiful evening at Gieselau lock


📍 Our route & stages

Stage 1: Helgoland → Gieselau lock

To get the tides just right, especially on the Elbe, we were up really early. Even though there was hardly any wind that day, we didn’t want to stay on Helgoland any longer. Ascension Day was around the corner, and the harbour mistress warned that it would be packed. Not our scene. So, at half past four, we cast off and raced up the Elbe at times doing 11 knots. Locking through Brunsbüttel went quickly, and suddenly it felt like spring. In the Kiel Canal, there was no sign left of the rough North Sea — instead, warmth, the scent of flowers, and birdsong surrounded us.

Stage 2: Gieselau → Kiel

Another day of perfect weather for our second canal day. Sailing is not allowed on the Kiel Canal — only motor sailing (don’t forget the black cone!) — so it didn’t really matter that we had almost no wind. Locking out didn’t take long either, and no one cared about our beautifully printed ticket.

Stage 3: Kiel → Ærøskøbing

From complete calm to 19 knots — this trip had everything. On our first journey across the Baltic, the sea showed us all its moods. Shortly before sunset, a bit tired but happy, we tied up in the small harbour of Ærøskøbing. Since we needed to work a bit again, we took a longer break here — about two weeks.

Sailing in Denmark

Discover the best sailing tips for Denmark: cruising areas, anchorages and practical advice for your next sailing adventure along Denmark’s Baltic coast

🗺️ Special experiences & learnings

  • The Kiel Canal ticket is now available online. The only drawback: you’re supposed to display it printed out on your boat. Luckily, a kind soul on Helgoland offered to print it for us. By now, there’s even a workaround for people without printers.

⚓ Our favourite place on this trip

  • Helgoland

💡 Practical tips for fellow sailors

  • Lay your fenders on the water — the lock walls in Brunsbüttel have low floating pontoons.
  • Time your Elbe passage with the tide. It’s best to arrive at your destination at high water. Watch out for strong wind against the current.
  • The Düsternbrook marina in Kiel can get quite choppy.

🖼️ Gallery