From Visby to the Åland Islands – June 2024

🧭 Factsheet

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📍 Our route & legs

Leg 1: Visby → Arkösund

Right on time for the season start on Saturday, 1 June, we set off from Visby. Conditions aren’t ideal, but they won’t get any better over the weekend either. The nearly 60 miles back to the Swedish mainland had a bit of everything: we left under full sail, then had to reef underway, and in the end we motored. Via two buoy moorings (Kalkviken, Mariendal) and the (not recommended) harbour Tyrislöt, we’ve now arrived in Arkösund. The sanitary facilities at Arkösund harbour were no spa: mould and dirt everywhere. Since the website for paying didn’t work, at least it wasn’t expensive.

Leg 2: Arkösund → Nynäshamn

At the weekend we’re doing another longer hop. 45 miles to Nynäshamn. We get up at 4 and cast off at sunrise. We want to meet our Swedish friend Tobias there, whom we once spent some time together with at anchor off Terschelling. And Tommy’s parents want to come and visit us. We want to pick them up at the airport in Stockholm. With 8 knots from the west, we really should have been able to sail pretty well. But there was such a big swell that the sails only flogged, and we kept the engine running to help.

Nynäshamn is a really professionally run harbour. The town isn’t exactly a beauty, but it’s perfect for a crew change and stocking up. With the train, which stops right at the station, you’re in Stockholm in no time. Also perfect for a city stroll.

Leg 3: Nynäshamn → Stockholm

There are four of us and we’re starting our sailing holiday together. We want to sail towards Stockholm nice and relaxed, and in the end explore the city together with the parents before they fly back. But first, out of the marina and into the beautiful natural harbour Nåttarö, just 6 miles before Nynäshamn. After a lovely breakfast, we continue on to Utö, to the buoy in front of the little church.

The next day we head to Dalarö. We don’t like the harbour (too much swell), so we only refuel and then carry on into the Stockholm archipelago. Following our friend Tobias’s recommendation, we steer for Napoleonsviken. The bay is quite full and a bit tight, but it’s sheltered from the wind and we don’t need much chain. Works for us. In Wasahamnen we’d reserved a berth just to be safe. It’s pretty tight and with stern buoys. We work up a bit of a sweat, but everything goes well. Price-wise it’s the most expensive we’ve had so far (with the reservation you pay 440 SEK + 100 SEK for electricity per day for 35 feet). But then it’s all-inclusive again.

We were on the water together for four days and covered a total of 53 miles. We managed to sail half of it. Everyone had great fun. Especially Tommy’s dad, who just couldn’t be prised away from the helm. Even though, for his taste, the sea could have been a bit rougher.

During our sightseeing in Stockholm, we ended up getting properly soaked to the skin. Luckily, the tumble dryers in the harbour were free. On our last day together we visit the Vasa Museum right by the harbour, and then the four of us take the train to Arlanda.

Leg 4: Stockholm → Stockholmen

We don’t want to spend Midsummer in the capital, but celebrate on Vaxholm. So on 20 June we set off in that direction. We motor the 11 miles through the gorgeous archipelago to Vaxholm. The forecast stronger wind arrived at exactly the moment we turned into the harbour. Same old story. And here, to our horror, there are lazy lines. Good thing the harbourmaster is already standing by, gives us directions, and hands over the line.

The morning after Midsummer we have to watch our poor neighbour get the lazy line wrapped around his propeller and end up taking an involuntary swim. So we set off after breakfast with a slightly uneasy feeling. But everything goes fine. Our propeller is relatively well protected by the long keel. We make two more stops, in Hogmarsö and at another little anchorage called Stockholmen, which is ideal for the planned crossing.

Leg 5: Stockholmen → Rödhamn

It’s 33 miles to the Åland Islands, and at last we can sail the whole way again. The small island Rödhamn, or rather the small group of islands, is truly wonderful. We have a feeling we’re going to like it here. For the first time in ages, we’re paying our harbour fees in euros again. The Ålands aren’t cheap. €37 per day, and there’s no electricity, no water at the pontoon, and only a loo with a hole in the ground.

🗺️ Special moments & learnings

• Once again travelling as a crew of four.
• For the first time, we’re in a different time zone from Germany. Quite an adjustment for work. Luckily only one hour!
• For the first time, we’re sailing in a new country again (Finland).

⚓ Our favourite place on this trip

• Stockholm

💡 Practical tips for anyone following in our wake

• To get to Arlanda Airport, it’s best not to take the ridiculously overpriced Arlanda Express, but rather the train and then change to the bus in Märsta. A taxi from Arlanda to Nynäshamn cost us around 1,500 SEK, because around midnight there’s no train heading towards Nynäshamn anymore.

🖼️ Gallery