Sweden’s west coast, Skagerrak & Kattegat – September 2023

🧭 Factsheet

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📍 Our route & stages

Stage 1: Fjällbacka → Malmön

We make the most of the beautiful late summer’s day on 2nd September to visit the Weather Islands (Väderöarna). The fact that we have to motor the 8 miles in flat calm doesn’t bother us at all in this glorious weather. Many others had the same idea, so even though it’s low season, the guest harbour is full. No problem – there’s a small sound behind the main island between Stora Hejen and Storö (you’ll find the coordinates here) with wooden jetties by the rocks. We still manage to grab a spot there, and later a friendly Swedish boat moors alongside us. The next morning, summer ends abruptly and the Skagerrak shows its serious side. The wind and waves have both picked up considerably. We can sail the 20 miles to Malmön and are thoroughly impressed by the wave crests at eye level. This time we stay in the lovely Fiskehamnen to wait until the wind calms down.

Stage 2: Malmön → Gullholmen

Two days later, we continue down the coast. Now we’re hitting all the places that are too crowded for our taste in summer. Passing Lysekil, we head for the almost legendary Bassholmen. Instead of going to the guest pontoon, we take a buoy nearby and dinghy ashore to explore the island. Just as we get to the harbour, a boat arrives that looks familiar. It’s Magic Carpet with Maya and Aladino, whose YouTube channel we’ve been following for ages. We let them settle in and have a quick chat with Aladino. The next day, we move on to Gullholmen. A lovely island, though the harbour isn’t great. The pontoon needs upkeep, and the facilities are rather so-so. We’re still spoilt from Malmön.

Stage 3: Gullholmen → Marstrand

The very next day we set off again for Hermanö nearby. We much prefer lying in nature, in a quiet bay. With glorious west wind the following day, we sail to Skärhamn. It’s a charming little place, though our berth right by the quay isn’t ideal. It’ll do for a couple of days though, as our next destination is Marstrand. This place, too, is packed in summer, but in the off-season, it’s peaceful, inexpensive, and there are still restaurants and shops open in mid-September. We arrange to meet Bert and Marlene Frisch from Trans Ocean e.V. for coffee and cake at the absolutely recommendable Bergs Bageriet. During our three days here, we explore the island – a truly wonderful circular trail.

Stage 4: Marstrand → Donsö

We set sail for one last leg along the Bohuslän coast and through the Gothenburg archipelago towards Donsö. At a narrow, shallow passage (south of Styrsö) we hold our breath for a moment but make it through without touching the bottom. On Donsö, we have to sit out another storm—eight days this time. To avoid the dinghy flying off in the wind, and because we won’t need it for a while anyway, we pack it away and stow it in our “garage” (aft cabin).

Stage 5: Donsö → Varberg

Our next leg takes us through familiar territory. We sail past Mönster, where we spend another night on a buoy, to Bua, where we first set foot on Swedish soil. Now that we’ve been here a third time, it almost feels like returning to our home port. After roughly three wonderful months along the West Swedish coast, our time here slowly draws to a close. The evening after next, we set off after work towards Varberg. This old fortress town really charmed us. The harbour – and especially the showers – were absolutely amazing. Almost like a spa.

🗺️ Special experiences & learnings

• Met several nice and interesting people.
• We crossed our July route again.
• We now sail confidently through the Swedish archipelago – something we’d never have dared a year ago.

⚓ Our favourite place on this trip

• Väderöarna (Weather Islands)

💡 Practical tips for fellow sailors

• In Marstrand and Varberg, you can use the washing machine and dryer free of charge.
• From Donsö, you can take the ferry and bus for a lovely day trip to Gothenburg.
• From September onwards, Swedes are allowed to set their own crab pots. In some places it looks like the IKEA ball pit – steer carefully!

🖼️ Gallery

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