Norway from Bergen to Stoksund – June 2025

🧭 Factsheet

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📍 Our route & legs

Leg 1: Bergen → Korssund

The plan for that day was simply to get out of Bergen and sail as far as the small island of Fedje. There was a harbour festival in Bergen and all visiting boats had to leave the harbour by 9 a.m. at the latest. It was a beautiful early summer’s day, sunny and pleasantly warm. Actually, it would have been a perfect day to explore Bergen. But well – no choice. We had picked Fedje, about 30 miles further north. With no wind at all, we had to motor. When we arrived, the guest harbour was already full, so we needed an alternative. In the immediate area there were mostly harbours for small motorboats. In the end, we opted for Korssund. At least we managed to get a bit of sailing in towards the end. After 70 nautical miles, however, we also had 10 engine hours on the clock.

Leg 2: Korssund → Svænøy

After work we waited until the rain had stopped and then set off towards Florø. We were able to enjoy some lovely downwind sailing as far as Askvoll. In the narrow fjord, however, the wind then blew straight on the nose. We had chosen the small island for the coming stormy days because it is very well sheltered. A good decision, as it turned out. It wasn’t just windy – it absolutely poured for two days. Even though it wasn’t really a proper harbour or even a village, the jetty had quite a lot to offer. Directly opposite was a small 24-hour supermarket, and for the modest mooring fee you were even allowed to do your laundry for free. So we made good use of the time. We also got our anchor chain ready for the summer.

Leg 3: Svænøy → Florø → Silda → Selje

We used the long Whitsun weekend to round the notorious Cape Stattlandet. On Friday we sailed to Florø, then on Saturday made a longer leg to the island of Silda. Along the way, Norway showed us some of its beautiful waterfalls and high mountains for the first time – and, of course, the associated katabatic winds. Relaxed downwind sailing turned into some serious heeling within moments. Silda wasn’t really to our taste, so on Whitsun Sunday we continued on to Selje. A small natural harbour with little more than a toilet. In return, though, it offered an absolute highlight ashore: the ruins of a monastery built around the year 1100. An absolutely magical place.

Leg 4: Selja → Runde

The wind had eased overnight, but there was still quite a swell running in Sildegap Bay. Unfortunately, it was once again less wind than forecast, so we had to motor around Stattlandet. Sadly, the ship tunnel that Norway is planning, to make passage around this very exposed cape safer, was not yet finished in 2025. Just before Runde – luckily not out at sea and not in the harbour either – the engine suddenly cut out. Empty tank, that was quickly clear. We had calculated a bit too tightly and assumed we’d be able to sail more. So we rolled out the small cutter sail and I motored back and forth in front of the harbour at Runde while Tommy filled the tank and bled the diesel line. Our fuel gauge isn’t exactly reliable. The analogue sender sometimes sticks and shows more than is actually in the tank. We’re now logging engine hours in the logbook. That won’t happen again. Lesson learned.

Leg 5: Runde → Ålesund → Sæbø Hjørundfjord → Ålesund

From Runde we headed towards Ålesund one afternoon after work. The city harbour was full, so we filled up at one of the cheapest fuel stations in the whole of Norway (13 NOK/l) and tied up at the jetty of a local sailing club outside the city (Gåsholmen).

A few days later we set off on our first proper fjord trip. The Hjørundfjord is shallow in one section, which means cruise ships can’t enter. Exactly what we were looking for. Sæbø at the end of the Hjørundfjord became our absolute favourite spot of this leg. After that, we headed back to Ålesund. This time we didn’t even try the city harbour, but stayed comfortably in Langevåg (island of Sula). The ferry takes you into Ålesund in no time at all, and in return you get comfortable service facilities, which are rather basic in Ålesund itself.

Leg 6: Ålesund → Nærb → Kristiansund

With perfect sailing wind from the south-west at 12–16 kn, we continued our journey after the first proper storm of the season. Conditions were so good that we could easily have sailed straight through. Instead, after 36 nm we stopped for the night in Nærb, which felt more like an industrial area with a jetty. Fine for one night, otherwise not really recommended.

We then had to cover the second half of the journey to Kristiansund under engine after all. More than once there was less wind than the models had promised. With a glassy calm sea and hardly any wind, we dared to take the inner route through Hustadvika (Stoplane). You really have to pay close attention there to interpret the many navigation marks correctly and pass them in the right order. From a distance it looks a bit like a slalom downhill course.

Leg 7: Kristiansund → Grip → Kuringvågen (Stokksund)

The final stage in June took us via the small island of Grip, past the outside of the large island of Hitra, and then further north along the coastline. Grip is truly worth the small detour. Just 9 nm from Kristiansund, it not only offers charming little wooden houses, but also one of the northernmost and smallest stave churches. After exploring the island, we turned in early, as we wanted to set off early the next morning and sail for 24 hours again to cover some distance.

Our goal was Rørvik. But shortly after departure, the sun disappeared – and much worse, so did the wind. After three hours it returned, and not quietly either, so that during the night we had to put in the first, and later the second, reef. In the end, 89 nm showed on the log and we had been underway for 20 hours. With the all-day daylight we now have, night passages aren’t really night passages at all.

🗺️ Special moments & lessons learned

• sailed into our first fjord
• rounded Stattlandet
• always keep an eye on the fuel level

⚓ Our favourite place on this trip

• Sæbø in the Hjørundfjord

💡 Practical tips for following sailors

• Alongside Windy, we used Barentswatch.no for passage planning. It made it easier to assess currents and sea state.
• If possible, you should give Hustadvika a wide berth. Only in very calm conditions should you venture along the coast. Instead of Nærb, it’s probably better to start from Bud when heading north.
• Sailing and boat life in Norway

🖼️ Gallery